Tuesday 24 September 2013

Trip to Vakkarakali Amman Devi temple - Thiruvakkarai, Tamil Nadu

It was sheer coincidence that I remembered one of my friend mention about the Vakkarakali Amman temple a couple of weeks back. My friend had talked about this over 2 years back.

I won't go into the details / highlights about this temple. You will find enough info here which was very useful for me.

It's so true, when you feel let down in life, you look up to that supreme spirit for solace and surrender, and you do get back the motivation and energy needed to move on with your life.

It was one of those days when I was emotionally down and suddenly remembered this temple. Called up my friend and figured out this was near Pondicherry (Puducherry as it''s aka). He also mentioned that Full moon day is very auspicious and visiting the temple on this day is a great experience and fulfilling.

I'm currently working in Chennai and hence travelling to Thiruvakkarai was not a long distance (approx 160 kms). I don't drive here in Chennai, so decided to take the train+bus.

On the evening of 18th October (evening of the full moon day), I took the Chennai Rameshwaram express train. Got down at Tindivanam railway station (a journey of 2 hours from Chennai). I checked with a local on how to proceed to Thiruvakkarai. On his suggestion, I walked down through the Tindivanam local market to reach the old bus stand from where buses were plying to Thiruvakkarai.

On full moon days I learnt that the bus frequency is increased.. I could get one as soon as I reached the bus stand. Couldn't get a seat and traveled standing rest of the journey.

Just when we were getting off the bus, it started drizzling and by the time we walked to the temple gate (about 100 metres from the bus stop. You can see the gopuram from where you get off), it started pouring down heavily. Eventhough I carried an umbrella in anticipation of the rain god, I did get wet to some extent. At the gates, there were 3 queues. One, free entrance which was crowded. 2nd entrance fee was Rs. 20 which was also relatively crowded. 3rd entrance fee was Rs. 50. I took the 3rd and entered. Not many people in queue. I had darshan of the devi in 1/2 hour, visited other temples in the same compound - Chandramouleshwara, Subramanya, Parvati and came out.

I did want to see the jyothi which was going to be lit on top of the temple at 12am. I checked with the Vakkarakali Amman temple office if there was any accommodation available. But there was none. So, since the darshan was complete by 9.30pm, I thought I'll have dinner and leave for Tindivanam to catch an early morning train back to Chennai.

On the street, you'll find lots of road side eateries who make hot idlis and dosas and chapatis. It's a different experience to eat there. I ate 2 thick chapatis with vegetable kurma for Rs.20 and started walking towards the bus station. 

On reaching there, I was told that on full moon day, after 8pm, all buses were only incoming and they would return only after the Jyoti darshan. That is when most people would come back. Hence the buses wait there till 12am.

I had no option but to return to the temple. I was pretty tired that day as my day had started early and was literally dragging my feet and looking for some place to sit. Anyway, I made it to the temple, used the same ticket to enter again and had another darshan of Vakkarakali Amman devi, came out and waited for Jyoti darshan.

All around me, I could see lots of ladies burning small lamps using mud lamps, lemon lamps and lamps made from shells of pumpkins (after taking out the ingredients).

It was around 11.45pm, that the atmosphere started getting charged with a priest of the temple initiating chanting with the crowd - "Om Kali", "Om Vakkarakali". I could also see around 5-6 ladies getting possessed and getting wild alongwith chanting. One of the ladies started hitting her husband. It sounds comical, but it seemed that she was unaware of what she was doing. It is something to be experienced being there. At at 12am, the Jyoti was lit and the crowd started dispersing. That's when I realised that my tiredness was gone and was feeling fresh. There was something in the air that had given me energy. I started back to the bus stand walking like a kid full of energy. As soon as I got into the bus, bought ticket and put my head onto the seat in front of me, I fell asleep. I woke up after 45 minutes when the bus reached Tindivanam.

I walked back to the railway station, found an empty stone bench, and slept for 3 hours. I was to catch a train at 5.10am back to Chennai. My alarm goes like this "Wake up wake up wake up, it's a brand new day.... Hey wake up wake up wake up, everything, begins today...."

Thus started my day again with memories from last night from the trip to Vakkarakali Amman temple in Thiruvakkarai still fresh on my mind, body and spirit.

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